Do you have a dog who’s so thrilled to see her people (even if you just went out to the mailbox), she celebrates reunions with way too much enthusiasm? Like most people, you may respond to jumping with No! Off! or Down! Or the one that leaves me (almost) speechless: No Jump!  . . . Wouldn’t you prefer to have no jumping in the first place? You just need to teach your dog what to do instead. . . . It can be done in one weekend. This is a simple training process that will show you the magic of clicker training.

If attention is the Mother of all behavior—and it is!—then calmness is the Father. We need both in order to get the best behavior from our dogs. You may be surprised how easily problems improve or actually disappear when your dog feels calmer and can focus on what you are asking for, , , , 

Is it always a good idea to ask your dog to Sit? I say Yes when it’s about getting a polite behavior before granting access to something he wants. However, if your dog’s behavior is spiraling out of control and you’re thinking that a Sit is going to calm him down, then No. 

Your dog’s mental state is the key to being able to (1) hear you and (2) comply.

Many people are lured into using a piece of equipment or a technique that’s aversive. If an electronic collar, for example, actually works as advertised to stop excessive barking, jumping up, leash pulling, or lunging and doesn’t really hurt the dog, what’s so wrong with using it?

Almost everyone who walks their dogs, even through a quiet residential neighborhood, faces situations where the dogs see or hear some “trigger” and lose their mind. So do I. But now I know what to do—and what not to do. My “aha moment” came several years ago . . . 

The game of Find It is not just an easy and exciting game to play with your dog. It also gives you a strong way to change your dog’s focus and behavior in challenging situations. A fun, familiar game provides a happy alternative to many behaviors you don’t like.  

First, treats are paws-down, the fastest, most effective way to train. They make it easy to get a rapid series of repetitions, to build “muscle memory.”  Treats are also used to create pleasant associations with new things (classical conditioning) or things that a dog finds scary (classical counter-conditioning). If your dog loves them, you will see more eagerness for learning in general, as well as quicker training success.

Even those who are completely onboard with adopting positive methods of training and handling their dog will ask, “But what am I supposed to do when I want him to stop doing something?” This usually comes up right after I’ve explained why I don’t like to say No or misuse the dog’s name to handle this situation.

If you just got a puppy and are stressing about all the typical problems you didn’t anticipate (or forgot about, like me), don’t despair. Like having a really cute but exhausting toddler, your life is consumed by potty training, tantrums, and trying to keep them from hurting themselves—and you. But there’s no need to resort to discipline, wait for training classes, or just hope the puppy will eventually “grow out of it.” There’s a lot you can do now to bring some quick relief—and more important, lay the foundation for a fantastic dog and a wonderful relationship.

The mother of all behaviors, as they say, is attention. If you can’t get your dog’s attention, you can’t expect to get the responses you want. But targeting is definitely the Swiss army knife of behaviors. When your dog can target, she has a tool with an amazing variety of terrifically useful functions. Yes, soon your dog will be able to uncork wine bottles and file her own nails! Well, almost.

Did you know that working a dog’s brain is as important as physical exercise—and has even greater pay-offs? Training is important (I would say essential), but that’s not the only way to exercise the little gray cells. Giving dogs a challenge that’s instinctive—working for their food—is not just amusing to watch, it keeps them busy, lets them engage safely with an object in a productive way, and helps them learn how to solve problems. 

Does Baxter or Daisy growl (or worse) when you walk by at mealtime? Food guarding is not uncommon, so there’s a lot of advice on the Internet. Unfortunately, too many people regard this behavior as a leadership issue and give misguided advice. These so-called experts, including the one on TV, say that you’ve got to assert yourself as the “pack leader,” “show the dog who is boss.” 

Recently I attended a wonderful day-long seminar on canine adolescence, presented by professional trainer, breeder, and renowned author/speaker Suzanne Clothier. It was a great learning experience that improved my understanding and enhanced my own approach to reforming unruly dogs of any age. 

 One of the most useful behaviors to teach your dog is to just stand still for a few seconds. This isn’t a formal Stay, where Rex needs to be in a Sit or a Down for several minutes. It’s like hitting the pause button so you have a moment to do what you need to do. It also teaches impulse control, an essential skill that every dog really needs--and can—learn.

Does the arrival of visitors tend to trigger an explosion of barking as you groan and follow your dog to the door? Are you holding on tightly by the collar as you open the door, struggling to keep her from jumping on your guests? Maybe you’re also commanding her to“Sit! .. . Sit! . . . Sit!!”  Even if she does, she pops right back up. Not a great way to begin a social occasion

It depends. The question is really two parts: Does your dog (let’s call her Fluffy) actually wantto greet this particular dog at this time? Fluffy’s answer may very well change according to the environment, the weather, time of day, her mood, and many other factors. It can be yes, no, or I’m not sure. And equally important, how does that second dog feel about a close encounter?

Confused about training methods? It’s no wonder, given the vast differences between the ways we grew up with; what we have seen on TV (“the dog whisperer” vs. Victoria Stilwell); and what we’ve learned in obedience classes, from books, and from amateurs and experts on the Internet, not to mention friends and relatives. 

The tail is an under-appreciated barometer of how our dogs are feeling. Everyone can recognize the two extremes: (1) a wildly flailing tail—accompanied by a loose, relaxed body, mouth, and eyes—that says I’m happy to see you! Come closer! and (2) a tail tucked way under the belly—accompanied by a crouched, lowered body and averted eyes or “whale eye”— that says I’m scared, please go away!  
 

Pulling is a very common complaint—and it comes from both ends of the leash. Yes, dogs would rather walk on a loose leash too! When pulling causes annoyance, frustration, pain, and fear of falling, “pully” dogs often get shorter and fewer walks. And then, inadequate exercise and exploration time can give rise to new behavior issues. 

It’s very common for barking and lunging at other dogs (or certain people, noisy trucks, etc.) to be called aggression. But reactivity (the proper term) is almost always due to fear. Everyone can recognize fear in dogs who retreat, hide, shiver, and cower. “Aww,” we say, “he’s scared!” But the dog who reacts offensively is usually labeled aggressive even though he’s “really sweet at home!” or maybe even “fine” with other dogs off leash.